Some destinations exist in your imagination long before your passport ever meets their soil. For me, Lake Como was one of those places—a jewel of Northern Italy I had dreamed of visiting for years. Nestled against the dramatic rise of the Italian Alps, its glistening waters and storybook towns seemed almost too perfect to be real. Now that I’ve finally experienced it, I can say this: if there’s ever a place worth returning to, it’s Lake Como.
A New Chapter in Italian Travels
Italy has always had my heart, though until now my adventures have taken me south—to the rolling hills of Tuscany, the Amalfi Coast’s breathtaking cliffs, and the sun-drenched Mediterranean. Each region carries its own flavors, traditions, and personality. But stepping into the north, into Lake Como, felt like rounding out two decades of exploration. It was as if the final piece of my Italian puzzle had clicked into place. The only region left on my list is Puglia—and I’m already saving that for next summer.
We flew into Milan, an easy gateway to the lake, and opted to rent a car for the hour-long drive. While many travelers take the train to Como and rely on ferries to hop from town to town, we knew we wanted the freedom to explore without being tethered to timetables. Growing up along California’s northern coast made me feel right at home on Como’s winding roads—they’re scenic, a touch narrow, but surprisingly relaxed. My only advice: keep to the right, and reserve the left lane for passing.
Arriving at Villa d’Este
Our trip had been three years in the making, and there was never any question about where we’d stay. Freddie and I have long gravitated toward properties in the Leading Hotels of the World collection, so for Como, it had to be their crown jewel: Villa d’Este.
Tucked into the town of Cernobbio, Villa d’Este is everything you imagine when you think of Italian grandeur. Passing through its gates felt like stepping into history. Two stately buildings—the Cardinal Building and the Queen’s Pavilion—stand proudly amid centuries-old gardens that spill down toward the water’s edge. The entire property hums with a quiet elegance, an artful reminder of how Italians have perfected la dolce vita.
Staying here as a Leaders Club member added an extra touch of magic. The program (which is free to join) offers travelers perks like early check-in, late check-out, upgrades, and members-only rates. It felt like the hotel anticipated our every need, giving us more time to soak in the experience.
Days on the Lake, Nights in La Veranda
Lake Como has a way of blurring time. Days melted into swims in the cool water and golden-hour boat rides as the sun disappeared behind the Alps. Evenings were reserved for dining, and no experience compared to dinner at La Veranda, Villa d’Este’s legendary restaurant.
Picture this: rows of round tables draped in white linens, lined neatly between the hotel and the lakefront. As the clock strikes six, a parade of bow-tied waiters gracefully weave between guests dressed in their finest. Jackets are required for men, of course, but it only adds to the sense of timeless formality. Four hours passed in what felt like minutes, each course paired with wine and served with a warmth and charm that only Italians can deliver. Leaving was bittersweet, softened only by the concierge’s parting words—ci vediamo dopo, “see you later.” It made Villa d’Este feel less like a hotel, and more like a summer home we’d one day return to.
Exploring Beyond Cernobbio
After our stay at Villa d’Este, we ventured a little further, settling into a charming apartment in Brienno. Our mornings began with the tolling bells of a 16th-century church just outside the window—a simple yet unforgettable detail that anchored us to the rhythms of the lake.
With our car, we discovered gems that might have gone unnoticed otherwise. Parco Teresio Olivelli in Tremezzina quickly became a favorite, a lush public park where we swam and basked in the sun. Lunch at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo followed by a dip in the lake was the perfect way to spend an afternoon.
We also made it a point to dine at other hotels, each with its own personality. Il Sereno offered a modern twist on Italian cuisine, while the Mandarin Oriental surprised us with an Asian-inspired menu—a refreshing detour from pasta and risotto.
Towns That Steal Your Heart
Of all the towns we explored, Menaggio and Bellagio stood out as quintessential Lake Como. Menaggio charmed us with its lakeside promenade and old-world character. Bellagio, often called the “Pearl of the Lake,” was every bit as enchanting as promised. The highlight? Giardini di Villa Melzi—a botanical garden that unfurls like a painting, with manicured pathways and views that stop you in your tracks. Just a short walk from Bellagio’s bustling center, it’s a reminder of why this region has captivated travelers for centuries.
Until Next Time
As we left Lake Como behind, I realized it wasn’t just another destination to check off the list. It was a dream fulfilled, but also a promise of return. Because some places don’t just leave you with memories—they leave you longing for more.
And Lake Como, with its blend of elegance, culture, and natural splendor, is one of those rare places worth revisiting.
